Model Of Deadpool And Harley Quinn Painted Plus Review
Needs more small detail on deadpool.
Model Maker Malix3Design
We have had some of malix’s designs over the period. Today i want to share how we post processed and painted Harley Quinn and Deadpool. Over all we loved both models can not fault anything wrong with Harley Quinn amazing model great detail 10/10.
Deadpool on the other hand we would like to see some small changes, to begin with the sword in his hand. We think it should have been a separate part, because it can get easily broken so you need to be careful. Also we would like to see the transition lines for the black going into the red a small amount thicker, this will make the model easier for painting, but over all we give this model 9/10 for detail and print-ability.
The printer we used for these models was a Tevo tarantula a good beginner DIY Printer. This printer comes as a kit, this means you need to build the printer from the base to the electronics. Once you have built your printer you can then go through the stages of calibrating it, from extruder to the PID calibrations.
The Tevo Tarantula can be just as good as any other high end printer but you do need to put the time and effert into it. To further extend this printer you can print extra support brackets and a whole lot more, these you can find on Thingiverse. This printer is really modular and can do just about anything. We do have plans for both of our Tarantula’s but this won’t be till later this year.
The programme we use for printing our models is called S3D (Simplify3D). We choose this slicer because it is more compatible with more 3D printers than any other software available. Chances are your 3D printer will be supported. Simplify3D will translates your 3D models into instructions that your 3D printer will understand. In fact more than 90% of experts agree that having better software will have the greatest impact on print quality, even more so than the 3D printer itself.
Total Print Time 45 hours each
- model at 130%
- speed 0.2500
- layer height 3
- bottom layers 2
- out perimeter 3
- top layers one
Post Processing-Removing the support
Once your model has done printing you can now start to begin removing all parts from the bed, If the bed is still hot please do not try and pull them off as you can damage the bed or the models. You can begin by removing all support, in some cases the material largely just broke away when I used my fingers.
To get into smaller parts i use needle nose pliers for some of it and a putty-type knife with a sharpened edge. Lots of people will suggest using an xacto knife, i really don’t recommend this type of tool because one slip and the results will be a sliced finger and blood on your 3d printed object this means more work as you will have to wash it.
Begin using 80 grit sandpaper. When sanding the goal is to remove any left over blemishes from the raft or support material to create an even surface, using this process it will remove most of the material. You will notice that your model will become dull and rough this is what you want.
The shine will return after you move up to higher sanding grit, continue going up to higher girts (120, 240, 200, 1000, 1500) until you are happy with the results. You can use an electric sander to make this process faster, but be careful you can start digging in and melting your print.
If you have more than one part then these materials are good for joining models together- hot glue gun, superglue or Pongo PLA glue,all of these products work great for me. You can get any of these supplies from your local craft/DIY store, eBay or amazon.
Once all parts are joined i then would use wood filler on all the joins this will close up any defects in the model. The reason why i use wood filler is because it doesn’t set fast when applying, if you have to much you can remove the excess with tissue or cloth this product is very simply to use. Once the wood filler has set you can sand until smooth and even.
Make sure before any type of spraying you wear gloves,eye protection and a respiratory mask. Once your model is ready for painting hang it in an open area. This will allow you to paint all surfaces evenly without having to handle the model while the paint is drying. Spray in short, rapid strokes, hold the can 6-8” from the model, it’s better to start with a very thin initial coat and slowly build up opacity.
Filler primer will highlight any imperfections in a model and preps them to be sanded or filled before painting. Sanding is a crucial part for better adhesion of the filler primer. Once the primer is on you will then need to check for any areas that need additional sanding or filing. To finish this step just apply one or two coats of white or any other colour you want for your base coat this will give you a good base colour to work with on your painting.
Painting and Finishing
Now we have our models all prepped with a base coat of white primer. These models have quite bold colours so there won’t be much mixing paint involved or any dry brush just plan standard colours.
- Filler Primer
- Paint brushes
- Cup for clean and dirty water
- Tissue Papper
- Mixing pallet
- Acrylic paints
- Gloss Lacquer
- Matt Laquer
- Painting Stand
- Deadpool Printable File
- Harley Quinn Printable File
This is such a easy model to paint the only problem was the transition lines were quite thin was hard to see where the red or black stopped and started. So we began with the light red placing it in the parts where it should be, once dry we then done a slightly watered down dark red to give it the dirt effect look. Moved on to adding the black trying to blend it in with the red. We done the boots and gloves black, also adding little touches of grey/silver giving it the metal look.
The pouches were done in a dark and light brown with a gold button, for the final touches we added copper for the bullets,chrome for the sword and little bit of white for the eyes. To finish this off we used clear gloss lacquer, apply one coat first then let it dry this will seal your model in. If you just continue to spray the lacquer will end up running, depending on the paint you use the lacquer might react with the base paint.
Classic Harley Quinn
Now onto Harley first we tried the classic look with the red and black clothing, we found out that for this model it was easier to do the darker colours first. If you done the light colour first and made a mistake it was harder to cover the dark, then you would have to apply white paint to cover this.
We did how ever add gold and silver onto the belt and the buckles of the boots these are both chrome paints, hot pink chrome vinyl wrap for the top of the base with gold around the edge this gave it a mirror effect. We applied the wrong colour of skin tone which was far too light this made her look like a ghost, we corrected this by using more of a life like skin tone. As you will see there was allot of layer lines in the classic version as we did not post processing this model that much.
The other variation we did take more time to properly sand this model it was much smoother, didn’t have any defect and was easier to paint, how ever you can see the transitions are more clearer because we use black to outline them standing the blue and red out.
To finish this model off we did do a huge mistake of making the skin and hair glossy this made the model horrible, so we changed this by doing matt for the hair and skin. The brand for the skin tone we used was flat flesh and pale flesh Vallejo paint you can buy these from eBay maybe less than £4.
Here are some other different variations of Harley Quinn’s hammer
Are you interested in what other things Inov3D has been up to then why not check out this article Tevo Michelangelo 3D Printer, on this article we are showing the latest product Tevo has released.