Eryone Dark Wood PLA – Just a Splinter faction?

Eryone Dark Wood PLA is the 2nd wood PLA I have tried. The first being from Tianse. I wasn’t overly enthused with it, but when my contact at Eryone approached me to test their new Dark Wood PLA, I was convinced to try again. As usual with me, the filament is from Amazon. At the time of writing the price was a princely sum of £25.99 Per KG. Not the most expensive but not a budget option either. The packing was the standard brown card box with vac sealed desiccant bagged spool.

Eryone Packing.


My initial dislike for this general type of filament has been put aside for this test as has my usual method. Ordinarily, I go straight for the calibration cube and a benchy. However, my wife informs me that my son now has so many “little boats” he’s started giving them away at playschool.

Scratching my head for what to print, I decided to go big or go home. I was partway through the print of Samurai Batman by Diaz Printables, and the base is huge. I had been looking for a roof tile red to do it in but decided the oriental roof scene would suit the Eryone Dark Wood PLA well.

Eryone Dark Wood PLATaking advice from a friend, I set my CR10S5 up for the task. 0.6 Nozzle fitted two shells and only 8% infill. I was still going to be using an 850G of the filament on this one item. Setting the layer height high to get the rustic weathered effect I was after I proceeded with the 80-hour print. To then come home and find out it printed fantastically! The wood looks just like its spent the last 150 years on a Japanese roof.

Pretty test

Knowing that the kind of weathered effect I was going for wasn’t what most people would want, I took the Eryone Dark wood PLA and fitted the remains to my Ender 3 Pro. I have just installed a Dyze designed Tungsten carbide nozzle to this printer. I figured the nozzle was designed for abrasive filaments like the wood PLA so it should be fine and give a lovely print,

Selecting the Moai statue that I previously printed using Geeetechs marble filament, I proceeded to set the printer off. Four hours later, I was pleased with the results. Despite a small layer issue where I had inadvertently caused a massive draft through my printer room, the print was gorgeous.


The Eryone Dark Wood PLA had printed lovely. The finish was superb and much more abundant in colour than the previous filaments I’ve used of this type. I’m almost tempted to buy another roll and try to print some fancy items! I could then varnish them as I’m sure it would only do this filament wonders!

Eryone Dark Wood PLA Moai


Now, as previously mentioned, I was worried about the abrasive properties of this kind of filament. Yes, the 80hour print did trash a 0.6mm nozzle! However, that could also be down to the fact that I had the printer running a little faster than usual. Also, I had it a little hotter to get the effect I was after on the print. Examining the Tungsten Carbide nozzle, I got from Dyze Designs I couldn’t see any signs of wear and tear. If you’re planning on printing hard and fast or long term with this kind of filament perhaps invest in a harder nozzle than your standard brass one.


To sum up, I liked it. I was surprised by the colour depth and the low odour of this filament. It’s often found that wood infused filaments often have a higher smell than other PLA. I may purchase a second roll to play with for some name plaques I’m toying with printing for my sister’s horses. Varnish combined with the Eryone Dark Wood PLA should provide increased longevity to the filament in the hostile environment of being outside.

Have you enjoyed my take on Eryone Dark Wood PLA? Comment down below on your thoughts. Interest ed in more articles, here is our latest one AmeraLabs Resin Review.


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  1. Hi, did several prints with it by now and having a hard time to get it sticky to the base plate, what temperature are you going for nozzle and base? I am printing on an Ender 5 Pro at 190/50
    The look is great even that I wouldn’t call that ‘dark’ wood but the layers break easily at sharp edges. Tried the heat tower and the little blocks come apart very easy.
    I like the outcome if I get through the print but having a hard time to calibrate and maintain a steady result.

  2. Christophe I would recommend increasing your print temp to 200 and your bed temp to 60, I don’t know what your print surface is I was printing on glass. I also don’t know how fast your printing I wouldn’t be try anything over 45mms with this type of filament. I would also always recommend levelling your bed and making sure its clean before looking at other issues, as for the colouration i agree but the name of the filament is down to Eryone.

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