DyzeXtruder Pro & Dyzend Pro Review – Part 1 – Turn up the heat!

With plenty of hotend and extruder combos out there, how many outs there can reach temperatures of 500°C!? Not many! The folks over at Dyze Design have kindly sent me the DyzeXtruder Pro & Dyzend Pro along with the Sentinel Filament sensor. I have the 24v – 1.75mm kit. Here I will take you through the installation and configuration using my Ender 3. Let’s see how it performs!

About Dyze Design

DyzeXtruder Pro Extruder 1.75mm

The DyzeXtruder Pro is lightweight and all-metal 3D printer extruder and also has one of the smallest form factors on the market: it is not larger than the NEMA 17 it uses, making it very space efficient on a multiple extruder configuration. Besides, the extruder is stronger than ever. With the improved teeth and new bearings types, the DyzeXtruder Pro can push as much as 10 kg (22 pounds) of force. This is more than necessary for all 3D printing applications. Finally, the new backblock has cooling fins for increased heat spreading in room environments.

Features:

• Toolless HotEnd Removal: Take your hotend off of your extruder in just a few seconds with the thumbscrew. This will loosen the groove mount and free your hotend.
• Multiple Mounting Possibilities: The side mounting threads make it very easy to assemble; it includes two M3 screws to fit the DyzeXtruder Pro on a printer, bracketless. You can also mount the extruder on a panel.
• Guided Filament: The guides conduct the filament out of the extruder. They follow the teeth shape, allowing no other exits for the filament. The entire part has a low friction coating, increasing the pushing efficiency.
• Completely Redesigned Teeth: 35% more pushing force with rigid filaments. 25% more pushing for with flexible filaments. Also, the filament remains round, even after 100+ passages.
• Metal Reduction Gears: The DyzeXtruder Pro has a 5.65: 1 gear ratio. We have chosen this ratio to use the full potential of a tiny motor while, enabling very high pushing forces. The gears are custom made from high strength hardened steel. This combination allows low friction operations and longer life. They design the gears and bearings to last for hundreds of kilograms in extreme conditions.
• Dual-pinch drive system: The dual-pinch system allows a higher pushing force with a lower filament pressure. It reduces the risk of flattening the filament when highly detailed prints require a lot of retractions.
• Constant pressure: They have redesigned the custom spring to provide the optimal pressure at the filament with the new teeth. You’ll always get the same output flow, reducing the variations involved in changing filaments.
• Matched included motor: Dyze Design has chosen the included motor to match the maximum torque tolerated by filaments. The motor won’t grind your filament and will prevent any damage inside the extruder.

Technical Information:

DyzEnd Pro Hotend 1.75mm

The DyzEnd Pro hotend has a really small form factor, making it one of the smallest hotend on the market. It is designed with a new high-temperature heat block, a new ceramic coated transition tube, vibration dampening feature, reinforced sealing properties, and smaller vibration resistant connectors that are better suited for 3D printers in closed environments.

Moreover, the DyzEnd Pro comes equipped with Dyze Design’s new ultra wear resistance tungsten carbide nozzle. The high thermal performance of the tungsten carbide keeps the nozzle tip hot, thus allowing faster printing speed without sacrificing the quality. Tungsten carbide has exceptional wear resistance due to its high hardness.

Features:

• New High-Temperature Heat Block: Steel will keep its strength at high temperatures much better than copper or aluminium. The new block shape reduces losses by breaking the sharp edges. The coating is very slippery and easier to clean.
• New Ceramic Coated Transition Tube: The DyzEnd Pro is made from a ceramic-coated titanium transition tube. The hard coating increases wear resistance and reduce friction, enabling easier retraction and better flow.
• Fan sound/vibration dampening: The small rubber spacer absorbs the vibrations generated from the fan and reduces the noise. The higher quality fans have ball bearings, increasing lifespan, and further vibration reduction.
• Cold Swappable Nozzles: By using a very special high-temperature sealing washer and a very strong M10 nozzle, the DyzEnd Pro is able to switch nozzles at room temperature. No leaks, no burning hazard.
• Inconel® sealing washer: Inconel alloys are heat resistant and can be used in extreme environments. The sealing washer easily keeps its sealing properties, even at 500°C.
• Any Temperature Sensor: Choose between a 300°C Thermistor, a 500°C Thermistor, a 500°C PT100, or a 500°C Type K thermocouple sensor.
• Liquid Cooling Ready: The DyzEnd Pro can be easily converted to a liquid-cooled setup with Dyze Design’s specialized cooling blocks.

Technical Information:

Sentinel Filament Detector

Technical Information:

Dyze Design Packaging

The DyzeXtruder Pro & Dyzend Pro came packaged really well. A sturdy box with a branded sleeve over top. Dense foam inside to hold the components topped with the wiring needed. Fixings included in a small ziplock bag. The Sentinel Filament sensor is packaged in its own small branded box too. Genuine sticker labels to seal the boxes also to ensure you are getting the real thing!

DyzeXtruder Pro & Dyzend Pro Assembly

Before we get started on installing the DyzeXtruder Pro & Dyzend Pro, we need to 3D print a bracket for the extruder and a fan duct for the hotend. Dyze Design has linked to a couple of options, however, there aren’t many! In addition, they have technical drawings so you could design your own.

I opted to use Emvio Carbloaded PETG to 3D print these as that’s the only suitable filament I have at the moment. I printed these with my Tenlog TL D3 Pro.

• Extruder bracket – Thingiverse / Fan duct – Thingiverse

Installation is fairly straightforward for these. I will instal this kit on my Ender 3 3D printer, so first things first are to take it all apart.

Next Step

I connected the Dyzend Pro to the DyzeXtruder. With this kit, the hotend has a quick-release mechanism which makes it really easy to swap out the hotend. You just loosen a screw, move a lever, and it just drops out! It has a recess too, so you know it is in the right place when securing back on. Then I secured the thermistor, which just screws in, so no glass bead to worry about. The heater element slots in and secures with 1 screw. Mount the extruder bracket to one side of the DyzeXtruder first and then secure this to your carriage plate.

Now, this is in place. You can connect the extruder wire and then group the wires together. Bind together with a cable tie to keep them out of the way so I can put on the fan duct. I also attach a 50mm fan blower. (Ensure you have the correct voltage fan that corresponds to your kit and printer voltage!)

Once all in place, I had to raise my Z limit switch up to avoid the nozzle crashing into the bed. That’s most of the hardware now complete! I will install the Sentinel Filament Detector later on, and I also replaced the PTFE tube in the extruder with some Capricorn tubing.

Connecting to your board

My Ender 3 currently has the SKR E3 Turbo board installed, which provides all the relevant ports you need. After disconnecting my existing hotend and extruder, I plug everything in as circled. With the Dyzend Pro cooling fan, this requires constant power, so this was connected directly to my power supply.

Now that everything is in place, it’s time to sort the firmware!

Firmware configuration for the DyzeXtruder Pro

To start afresh, I downloaded the BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 Turbo firmware from their GitHub and followed the instructions which can be found on the Dyze Design website. There are a couple of things that need to be amended in the firmware as the below. You can use the CTRL+F in your editor (VSCode/Atom/ArduinoIDE) to bring up the search box to help locate these.

Configuration.h

• 420 #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 66
• 451 #define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 21
• 464 #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 500
• 499 #define DEFAULT_Kp 14.00
• 500 #define DEFAULT_Ki 0.5
• 501 #define DEFAULT_Kd 125.00
• 744 #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80, 80, 80, 582 }

Configuration_adv.h

• 350 #define MAX_CONSECUTIVE_LOW_TEMPERATURE_ERROR_ALLOWED 5
• 357 #define MILLISECONDS_PREHEAT_TIME 30000

Once you have your values all set, compile and upload as normal as you are ready to go!

Let’s turn up the heat!

Just a side note: WIth the above firmware changes, if using a TFT screen, this will only work in Marlin mode. With the touchscreen interface, it only goes up to a max of 275°C so requires the TFT firmware amending (of which I haven’t yet figured out!) Now that all is in place, let’s power on and test the temperature!

As you can see, I got it up to 485°C! There is a setting in the firmware for a -15°C safety feature which is why I could only go up to 485°C but this won’t affect the functionality of the Dyzend Pro. Because of the high temperature, this coloured the hotend, as expected.

My fan duct held out pretty well considering it is printed from PET. I will need to print a new part cooling fan from a different material that can withstand the higher temperatures. The part cooling fan came on at 100% whilst starting to heat, which caused a MINTEMP error. I got the hotend up to 210°C first and then increased to 485°C with no issues.

Now that I know I can get up to temperature, it’s now time for a PID tune. I wrote a tutorial on how to do this of which can find here.

Slicer settings for the Dyzend Pro

Before beginning to print, a few settings to take note of within your slicer settings. I am using Simplify3D so my settings will be based on that. The fundamental things to change are:

• Extrusion Multiplier: 1.50
• Retraction distance: 1.00 mm
• Retraction Speed: 25 mm/s (Suggested max is 35mm/s)

With it also being an all metal hotend, I also increased my printing temperatures to 215°C

3D Print Tests

My test prints I did with the DyzXtruder Pro & Dyzend Pro.

XYZ calibration cube

 I am using 3DQF Sky Blue PLA for this test printing at 0.1mm layer height, 30% infill at 215°C. From my first cube, you can see I suffered from some rough surfaces. This may have been down to the speed, so I printed again reducing my speed from 60mm/s to 50mm/s. You can see from here the surface has improved, although not the best!

Foldable Android Robot

Let’s try a different model. I went for the foldable Android robot by Fab365! Using the recommended settings by Fab365, how did this fair? I did also reduce my extrusion multiplier to 1.25 as I believe the 1.50 was over extruding, causing the rough surfaces. 

Much smoother surfaces this time, and the print looks great! However, it broke when I tried to loosen the parts and the head doesn’t turn. More fine tuning need with my slicer settings, I think. Other than that, pleased with this outcome!

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End of part 1

Unfortunately, I do not have any high-temperature filaments to test this further with. In this case, I will end my review here. If and when I get some high-temperature filament, I will do a Part 2 of this review to see how it deals with these. I will also incorporate the Sentinel Filament sensor too! on how to install and configure this.

Where to buy

You can purchase the DyzeXtruder Pro & Dyzend Pro directly from the Dyze Design site. Priced at $200 for the DyzeXtruder and $130 for the Dyzend Pro. You need to have a big wallet! The DyzeXtruder alone is worth more than my Ender 3! However, if you need to print high-temperature filaments, then there is no reason why you shouldn’t invest in one of these with thanks to its great build quality and longevity.

DyzeXtruder Pro Conclusion

To sum up, the DyzeXtruder Pro and Dyzend Pro is a brilliant combination. The build quality is excellent, and it’s fairly easy to install and configure. The loading of filament is easy thanks to the self-locking mechanism, meaning you don’t need both hands! With more fine-tuning, I can see this producing great quality prints and with the addition of being able to use high-temperature filaments, means you can do more! Perhaps this is not for the general hobbyists, but for professionals that require the higher temperatures, this is a no brainer, really. It is on the top end of the budget, but you are paying for quality.

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