Model Maker Malix3Design
We have had some of malix’s designs over the period. Today I want to share how we post-processed and painted Harley Quinn and Deadpool. Overall we loved both models cannot fault anything wrong with Harley Quinn amazing model great detail 10/10.
Deadpool, on the other hand, we would like to see some small changes, to begin with, the sword in his hand. We think it should have been a separate part because it can get easily broken, so you need to be careful. Also, we would like to see the transition lines for the black going into the red a small amount thicker, this will make the model easier for painting, but overall we give this model 9/10 for detail and print-ability.
Printing On The Tevo Tarantula
The printer we used for these models was the Tevo tarantula a good beginner DIY Printer. This printer comes as a kit. This means you need to build the printer from the base to the electronics. Once you have made your printer, you can then go through the stages of calibrating it, from the extruder to the PID calibrations.
TheTevo Tarantula can be just as good as any other high-end printer, but you do need to put the time and effort into it. To further extend this printer you can print extra support brackets and a whole lot more, these you can find on Thingiverse. This printer is modular and can do just about anything. We do have plans for both of our Tarantula’s, but this won’t be till later this year.
The programme we use for printing our models is called S3D (Simplify3D). We choose this slicer because it is more compatible with more 3D printers than any other software available. Chances are your 3D printer will be supported. Simplify3D will translates your 3D models into instructions that your 3D printer will understand. More than 90% of experts agree that having better software will have the most significant impact on print quality, even more so than the 3D printer itself.
Total Print Time
Each of malix’s models took 45 hours to prints at 130% scale. The settings that were used for these prints are a layer height of 3, the bottom layers 2, top layers one, out perimeter 3 and a speed of 0.2500.
Post-Processing And Removing the support
Once your model has done printing you can now start to begin removing all parts from the bed, If the foundation is still hot, please do not try and pull them off as you can damage the bed or the models. You can begin by removing all support; in some cases, the material mostly just broke away when I used my fingers.
To get into smaller parts, I use needle nose pliers for some of it and a putty-type knife with a sharpened edge. Lots of people will suggest using a xacto knife. I don’t recommend this type of tool because one slip and the results will be a sliced finger and blood on your 3d printed object this means more work as you will have to wash it.
Begin using 80 grit sandpaper. When sanding the goal is to remove any unwanted blemishes from the raft or support material to create an even surface, using this process it will remove most of the content. You will notice that your model will become dull and rough; this is what you want.
The shine will return after you move up to higher sanding grit, continue going up to higher girts (120, 240, 200, 1000, 1500) until you are happy with the results. You can use an electric sander to make this process faster, but be careful you can start digging in and melting your print.
If you have more than one part then these materials are suitable for joining models together- hot glue gun, super glue or Pongo PLA glue, all of these products work great for me. You can get any of these supplies from your local craft/DIY store, eBay or Amazon.
Once all parts are joined, I then would use wood filler on all the joins. This will close up any defects in the model. The reason why I use wood filler is that it doesn’t set fast when applying if you have to much you can remove the excess with tissue or cloth this product is straightforward to use. Once the wood filler has set, you can sand until smooth and even.
Make sure before any spraying you wear gloves, eye protection, and a respiratory mask. Once your model is ready for painting to hang it in an open area. This will allow you to paint all surfaces evenly without having to handle the model while the paint is drying. Spray in short, rapid strokes, hold the can 6-8” from the model, it’s better to start with a skinny initial coat and slowly build up opacity.
Filler primer will highlight any imperfections in a model and preps them to be sanded or filled before painting. Sanding is a crucial part for better adhesion of the filler primer. Once the primer is on, you will then need to check for any areas that need additional sanding or filing. To finish this step apply one or two coats of white or any other colour you want for your base coat this will give you a right base colour to work with on your painting.
Painting and Finishing
Now we have our models all prepped with a base coat of white primer. These models have quite bold colours so there won’t be much mixing paint involved or any dry brush plan standard colours.
- Filler Primer
- Cup for clean and dirty water
- Tissue Paper
- Mixing pallet
- Acrylic paints
- Gloss Lacquer
- Matt Laquer
- Painting Stand
- Deadpool Printable File
- Harley Quinn Printable File
This is such an easy model to paint the only problem was the transition lines were quite thin was hard to see where the red or black stopped and started. So we began with the light red placing it in the parts where it should be, once dry we then have done a slightly watered down dark red to give it the dirt effect look. Moved on to adding the black trying to blend it in with the red. We done the boots and gloves black, also adding little touches of grey/silver giving it a metal look.
The pouches were done in a dark and light brown with a gold button, for the final touches we added copper for the bullets, chrome for the sword and little bit of white for the eyes. To finish this off we used clear gloss lacquer, apply one coat first then let it dry this will seal your model in. If you continue to spray the lacquer will end up running, depending on the paint you use the lacquer might react with the base colour.
Classic Harley Quinn
Now onto Harley first, we tried the classic look with the red and black clothing, we found out that for this model, it was easier to do the darker colours first. If you have done the light colour first and made a mistake, it was harder to cover the dark. Then you would have to apply white paint to cover this.
We did, however, add gold and silver onto the belt and the buckles of the boots these are both chrome paints, hot pink chrome vinyl wrap for the top of the base with gold around the edge this gave it a mirror effect. We applied the wrong colour of skin tone, which was far too light; this made her look like a ghost. We corrected this by using more of a lifelike skin tone. As you will see, there was a lot of layer lines in the classic version as we did not post-processing this model that much.
The other variation we did take more time to sand this model it was much smoother properly, didn’t have any defect and was easier to paint. However, you can see the transitions are more precise because we use black to outline them standing the blue and red out.
To finish this model off, we did make a huge mistake of making the skin and hair glossy. This made the model horrible, so we changed this by doing matt for the hair and skin. The brand for the skin tone we used was smooth flesh, and pale flesh Vallejo paints you can buy these from eBay maybe less than £4.
Here are some other different variations of Harley Quinn’s hammer