Here are some beautiful photos we had taken at Tarlair last week 24/03/2018
Tarlair Pool The N.E.S.C.B.S motorbike show is held in Tarlair, Macduff. The motorbike show will have competitions for the Best
- Best Of Show
- Street Fighter
- 3 Wheels
- Paint Job
- Under 500cc
- Sports Bike
- Furthest travelled to the show on motorbikes and trikes
We didn’t attend on the 19th August 2017 for the camping, but we heard that it was perfect lots of laughs. We did, however, attend Tarlair open day on the 20th August 2017 at Macduff, Tarlair, North East Scotland to help raise money to save their pool.
Half of the money raised will go to the friends of Tarlair, and the other half will be going to some worthy cause in the North East. Last year it went to help a disabled biker in Portsoy and the year before it went to a little girl in Fraserburgh who needed an operation.
It was free entry to the public there were raffles, exotic animals, there was an appearance from trolls, Banff castle pipe band, open mic slots, model boats, pony and trap rides, bouncy castle, various food, and craft stalls. Can’t forget about the fantastic motorbikes to see, these included sports bikes, scooters, rats, choppers, cruisers, street fighters, trikes, and classics.
Donated Trophy for Tarlair N.E.S.C.B.S Motorbike show
Inov3D gave a 3D printed trophy to N.E.S.C.B.S for the best of show award, added electronics also painted the model and added something a little extra. Imagineering from Peterhead provided us with this fantastic engraved tag to go onto the trophy.
The programme we use for printing our models is called S3D (Simplify3D). We choose this slicer because it is more compatible with more 3D printers than any other software available. Chances are your 3D printer will be supported. Simplify3D will translates your 3D models into instructions that your 3D printer will understand. More than 90% of experts agree that having better software will have the most significant impact on print quality, even more so than the 3D printer itself. We will be using the Tevo Tarantula for this award.
Once your model has done printing, you can now start to begin removing all parts from the bed. If the bed is still hot, please do not try and pull them off as you can damage the bed or the models. You can now proceed to remove all support. I prefer to use needle nose pliers for these parts. Other may suggest using xacto knife I don’t recommend this type of tool because one slip and the results will be a sliced finger or two.
Now onto the sanding, begin using 80 grit sandpaper. When sanding the goal is to remove any unwanted blemishes from the raft or support material to create an even surface, using this process it will remove most of the content. You will notice that your model will become dull and rough; this is what you want. The shine will return after you move up to higher sanding grit, continue going up to higher girts (120, 240, 200, 1000, 1500) until you are happy with this process. An electric sander will make this process faster be careful you don’t overdo the sanding.
You can now join your model together using a hot glue gun or super glue. This part should be done before you fill the joins or defects in, some models will have components that attach after the painting has been done.
You will see join lines where the models have been glued together, these parts you can use wood filler on all of the joins. We mainly use this product because it doesn’t set fast when applying, but the drying does take a while the downside of it. Once the wood filler has set, you can sand until smooth and even. You can add more filler if you need and continue the process.
Tip: Before spraying remember to wear gloves, eye protection, and a respiratory mask.
Once your model is ready for painting to hang it in an open area. This will allow you to paint all surfaces evenly without having to handle the model while is paint is drying. Apply a few layers of filler primer this highlight any imperfections in a model and preps them to be sanded or filled before painting. Hold the can 10-12 inches from the model. It’s best to start with a skinny initial coat and slowly build up opacity try using the misting technique. Once this process has been done, you can sand if needed. I then apply one coat of white primer; this gives it a base coat for painting.
Painting and Finishing
Start with applying silver to the base and the lettering in light red using our paint pens. I started with a black base coat on the skull, then applied graphite powder mixed with acetone. For the face, we layered light and dark red to give it the look of peeled skin. I added some chrome effect to the pipes. Vallejo green was used for the glasses and added a little chrome around the glasses for studs. The teeth I just painted them silver.
Apply a thin layer of clear lacquer first then build it up from there. If you spray to close you will end up with runs, this is not good because you will have to re-send them down. The clear coat will help even out some surface imperfections. If you’re working with spray paint, check with the manufacturer for clear coat recommendations.
For effect, I added two spark plugs to make it look real. I used four primary red LEDs with a resistor in the + line with a 12v power supply.
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