Two Trees Bluer Plus 3D Printer Review Is It Any Good?

Two Trees Bluer Plus 3D printer review. Although the name might not sound catchy at first, however, it is the performance of the FDM 3D printer that matters. Here we will be shedding some light on the key features of the Bluer Plus 3D printer and see how it stands against its competitors in the market today.

Two Trees Bluer Plus Simplify3D Slicer Profile

Do you use Simplify3D and you’re looking for a Bluer Plus slicer profile we got you covered

Main Specifications of the Two Trees Bluer Plus 3D Printer

Build Volume

Two Trees Bluer Plus 3D printer offers an amazing build volume of 300 mm x 300 mm x 400 mm. The extended height of the FDM 3D printer offers you an opportunity to go ahead with tall prints. So the creativity is there for you to grab on. Over all size 646 x 505 x 405 mm, the Bluer Plus is bigger than its predecessor, which was 230 x 230 x 280 mm. This gives you the space to create whatever you want.

Printing Speed

The 3D printer offers printing speed between 20-200 mm/s. Although the final print speed depends on the settings of the printer and the shape to be printed. However, the maximum speed can reach up to 200 mm/s.

Auto-levelling

Two Trees Bluer Plus 3D printer also offers automated functions related to leveling. There is an auto compensation mechanism that helps with Z-axis leveling of the heatbed using a Makerbase MKS 3D Touch probe sensor.

LCD Screen

In addition to other features, the Bluer Plus has a 4.3-inch LCD touch screen for easy interface with the users. This is one feature that really makes it easy for users to develop amazing and unique designs.

Advanced Stepper Motor

The stepper motor of the Two Trees 3D printer is a standout feature. Where ordinary printers offer a rotation of 1.8 degrees for the stepper motor; the Bluer Plus allows a 0.9 degrees rotation angle. This means that there are more steps for the stepper motor to operate in. Therefore, the control angles increase, giving more control to the user. Also, there is a tolerance of 0.01 mm for the GT2 pulley.

Print Pause and Resume Function

Two Trees Bluer Plus has a feature of automatically stopping the print in case of a filament runout situation. However, the glorious thing is that you can resume your FDM print from where you left it without hesitation. This gives users freedom to print with no fear of losing their progress, even if the filament runs out.

Highly Stable Z-Axis

Another outstanding feature of the 3D printer is a highly stable Z-Axis. The presence of the dual lead screws makes the printer stable during printing on the Z-axis.

Double Cooling Fans

The presence of double layer cooling fans provides an efficient part cooling solution. Which helps the printer work effectively throughout long print jobs.

Advanced Mainboard and Multi Driver

The mainboard is a MKS robin nano V1.2 with TMC2209 stepper drivers. With open source firmware. Two trees make it really easy to get to the main board at the top left side of the 3D printer there are 4 bolts you can take off and then you see the mainboard.

Spring Steel PEI Magnetic Plate

The Bluer Plus offers a premium build plate that’s better than a glass plate. It comes with a spring steel PEI magnetic sheet and a 3M hotbed sticker.

Introduction of Belt Tensioner

Two Trees added belt tensioners to the X- and Y- axes to tighten the belts when you turn them.

Where To Buy The Two Trees Bluer Plus

Unboxing The Bluer Plus 3D Printer Review

Upon unboxing the Two Trees Bluer Plus 3D printer you can see by the pictures, everything is in their own compartments surrounded by protective foam. Which is more than adequate to cushion any knocks during shipping. Both left and right side of the X carriage were tie wrapped and cling, filmed to hold it together.

The instructions are informative, full of colours and not plain. it’s not just instructions to help you build the bluer plus, but it gives you some handy tips and error warnings. I like the whale purse that came in the box. It will be good to put my Allan keys and cutters into it. Such a lovely thought.

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Sample Filament

However, the sample filament 200g in sky blue, the manufacture sent me a message that said, ” We found that the quality of the filament included in the first batch of 3D printers is problematic. They have sent a 1kg roll of white PLA filament as an extra, but im not sure if anyone new who buys the printer will get 1kg too. Two Trees said ,” Don’t worry we have controlled the quality of 0.2kg appearing in the 3D printer package it will be good, we have changed the manufacture.”

I will be still testing the sample filament out because I want to see if it is as bad. With buying your 1st 3D printer or buying another 3D printer, you will be more than likely to purchase more filament. I wouldn’t put this as a negative because they have fixed the issue for the future.

Bluer Plus 3D Printer Assembly

Before we can print anything on the bluer plus we need to first assemble the FDM 3D printer.

TIPS:

• VOLTAGE CHECK: Before putting the gantry frame on, you always need to check if the voltage is correct for your area. You have to un-screw the base to get into the power supply, this will take you about 5 minutes. (The reason to do this first is that if you install the frame, it will make the Two Trees Bluer Plus 3D printer heavier and be harder to get into the base.)
• HEAT BED: Tighten the levelling screws on the heat bed. There shouldn’t be any wobbling going on.
• BOWDEN TUBE: If you don’t place the PTFE tube all the way down, this is more than likely to make you have a blocked nozzle or heat creep. These are common issues on the geeetech A10M. User error!
• ECCENTIRC NUTS: Make sure these are tightened on the X axis, hotend carriage and the heat bed.
• BELTS: Make sure these are tightened on the X and Y axis.
• SCREWS:Check all over to find any loose screws, bolts, ect. 

So the assembly is easy as 1 2 3 4, here I will state how to put the Two Trees Bluer Plus together:

1. GANTRY FRAME: Insert the gantry frame into the base and tighten with the M5*50 screws (4). Make sure you tighten the coupling once you have placed the Z axis lead screw in place. The M3*10 screws are already in place (2).
2. EXTRUDER HEAD: Fix the Extruder head part using the M3*8 screws onto the X carriage. Then insert the Teflon tube into the hotend and the Duel drive Extruder, which is a clone of the BondTech BMG.
3. FILAMENT HOLDER: Use the M4*8 screws and T-nuts to fix the filament holder onto the top left of the gantry.
4. INTERFACE CONNECTION: 1-4, 2-5 and 3-6. It may sound difficult but it is really simply as the connection line up up directly from each other. 

Bluer Plus Thermal Runaway

It’s always good to check your 3D printer before use for thermal runaway in this case thermal runaway is activated for the hotend and heated bed.

3D Printer HotEnd

• Heating and cooling it down

Err7: Thermal runaway; when the temperature rises to the target temperature, the current temperature is lower than the target temperature value within the set time and the error is exceeded; please check if the thermal is normal or the PID value is correct.

• Disconnecting Hotend thermistor

While heating the nozzle and disconnecting i get this error

Err4: The nozzle exceeds the minimum temperature limit, please check if the thermal interface is disconnected;

3D Printer Hot Bed

• Heating and cooling it down

I couldn’t manage to get any error code to come up it just kept trying to get to the desired temperature i have asked the manufacturer to send us the source code they use for the firmware. What i got sent was this.

• Disconnecting Hot Bed thermistor

Err3: The hot bed exceeds the minimum temperature limit, please check if the thermal interface is disconnected;

Thermal Runaway Settings

Below are the settings that are in the configuration file that i got sent by Two Trees. I can’t be sure if this is the settings that’s on the bluer plus.

>THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD 120
>THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS 5
>WATCH_TEMP_PERIOD 60
>WATCH_TEMP_INCREASE 2
>THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED_PERIOD 120
>THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED_HYSTERESIS 5
>WATCH_BED_TEMP_PERIOD 160
>WATCH_BED_TEMP_INCREASE 2

Two Trees Bluer Plus Problems And QC Issues

Before starting any 3D printer, it is best to inspect everything first. I have found some major and small issues that need to be sorted before I can fully get the bluer plus review done. I have sent these issues to the manufacturer, and they were kind enough to send out new parts.

Every now and again you will find some QC issues or just problems. Recently for my past 3D printers there were no QC issues until I got the Bluer Plus. The biggest one was the heated bed. I’m totally devastated to the mess of it and how unsafe this will be if I were to put any test 3D models on it. Luckily I always check over the 3D printers I have, or this could have potentially caused a fire. I have emailed the manufacture about this.

Heated Bed QC Problem

The Two Trees Bluer Plus heated bed is a basic 4 Core with the wires soldered directly to the heat bed. It arrived unsecure with 3 bed wheels off, but still the screws were in place. The back of the 3D printer heat bed is scratched with some parts of the copper traces removed completely. Some soldered joints are close to touching one another and not soldered good.

Heated Bed Solution

I was talking to our team about the hot bed and they suggested using 3 core wires that’s thicker. A removable bed connection and to provide 4 plastic washers to prevent all the metal from arching. This could cause a short circuit and fire. To keep the bed more secure in transport, tighten the bed screws. I received a new heated bed from two trees, still the same style, but it’s not damaged.

Filament Sensor Problem

When I started my 1st 3D print on the Two Trees Bluer Plus review unit, it was printing away and then every now and again, the filament sensor kicked in making the printer halt. Now this started getting annoying for me I had to fix it. With the 3D printer stopping and starting, it made over extrusion every time.

Filament Sensor Solution

The cause was because the filament sensor on the Two Trees Bluer Plus was not hitting the switch enough. This was a simple fix for the filament sensor. Take it apart and bend the end stop switch a little so it will make more contact with the filament.

HotEnd Fan Cover Problem

After a while of using the Bluer Plus, I heard the hotend cooling fan make a scratching noise. I thought it was filament, but I found out it’s the fins that were hitting the hotend cooling fan. Any kind of bump on the fins could then make them go closer to the fan, resulting in the hotend cooling fan not working well and making the scratching noise.

Hot End Fan Cover Solution

For a quick fix you could bend all the fins back, making it so it’s far from the hotend cooling fan. Or remove the metal fins and print a new fan cover. Luckily enough one of Inov3D’s members is great at designing 3D models, mostly practical models his name is Simon Tillema. You can find the hotend cooling fan cover on thingiverse.

Two Trees Bluer Plus 3D Printer Calibration

Now that the Two Trees Bluer Plus is set up all problems fixed it’s now time to calibrate. The slicer I will use is Simplify3D.  Here are some pictures of 3D prints before calibrating the Bluer Plus.

Wet Filament

As stated above in the filament section the supplied 200g Sky Blue PLA was problematic, so they sent us 1KG of white T-PLA to test. As soon as I put this on for print it was popping and leaving gaps on a spiral vase model. This tells me that the white T-PLA has moisture in it.

I had to put the T-PLA filament into the Sunlu filament dryer at 55C for 6 hours. The filament started printing better, but still was not dry. However, I tried adjusting the print speed higher, and this made the filament print good. I’m not totally sure, but I think by adjusting the speed it somehow gives it less time to make the small gaps in the filament.

Touch Sensor

I did not have to do anything at all to calibrate the touch sensor, which is called 3D touch, so it’s not a genuine BLtouch. But if you want to run the auto-leveling through the touch screen, all you need to do is click tool, then auto-level. The Bluer Plus will home to the middle then start probing 9 points. After this is done the print head will move back to the center. Then you are presented with information on how to adjust your offset.

1. Place a piece of A4 paper between the nozzle and the hotbed.
2. Move the z axis to adjust the offset between the nozzle and the heated bed.
3. Pull the paper gently, while adjusting the offset until there is slight resistance.
4. Click finish to save your offset.

You have the option of changing the length the z axis will move 0.01mm 0.05mm 0.1mm.

Bluer Plus Steps Per MM BMG Clone

On most 3D printers I have used in the past, it was possible for me to change the steps per mm on the LCD screen. But on the Bluer Plus, there is no option for this. Instead, I will use pronterface to send commands to the Bluer Plus to have a look at the current steps per mm and update them if I need to. Before I start this, we need to print a 20 mm XYZ Calibration Cube.

 

As you can see by the pictures above the steps per mm for X, Y and Z are perfect, but it looks like the finishing of the calibration cube is rough. This could be many reasons over or under extrusion caused by incorrect BMG extruder steps per mm or because of the filament diameter not being perfect. Now I will calibrate the BMG clone extruder to see if Two Trees set the steps per mm good. The steps for the extruder were not set perfect it was under extruding.

To update your new steps per mm, follow these steps below:

 

Final steps per mm

• Extruder steps per mm before 430.00 after 448.8
• Z steps per mm 400.00
• X steps per mm 160.00
• Y steps per mm 160.00

Pronterface Updating Extruder Steps Per MM

1. Download pronterface LINK
2. Plug in the USB Cable from your 3d printer to your pc
3. Chose your port on pronterface
4. Enter baudrate 115200
5. In the pronterface command terminal enter M92 E404.51
6. Now enter M500 to save the new extruder steps setting to the 3D Printers EEPROM
7. Lastly, check your new settings are saved using the M501 command.

Changing The Extruder Flow Rate

You will need to adjust the flow rate sometimes. With different brands and types of filament or to do some minor adjustments. For example, we have now set the extruder steps per mm, but I Can still see some under extrusion. This again could be because of the filament diameter or the adjusted extruder steps per mm being off a little. Now lets do a little tweaking of the extrusion multiplier in Simplify3D. If this does not remove the over extrusion, then it’s because the filament diameter is not constant.

Adjusted Flow Rate Extrusion Multiplier

i adjusted the flow rate by 0.5 increments to find the flow rate that worked best

Old flow rate 1.00 new flow rate 0.95

Two Trees T-PLA Filament Deviation

By measuring the filament diameter multiple times, the diameter i got was 1.6. This is really poor for any filament that is supposed to be 1.75. By doing a lot of measurements and finding the closest diameter, you could enter this into your slicer settings. Potentially resulting in better 3D prints because your slicer will know the optimal diameter. Two Trees T-PLA Filament Deviation 0.15 and the extrusion multiplication factor is 1.196. Which you can input in the software Prusaslicer under the filament settings tab. The filament diameter can still change the more you use the filament spool, meaning more over or under extrusion.

Bluer Plus 3D Prints

Now That all calibration is done it’s now time to do our final prints I love to print multiple models when reviewing a 3D printer. There are a selection of filaments that have been used from Xvico Rainbow Pla, Two Trees T-Pla White and Spidermaker Matte Pla in the shade Emerald Green.

Calibration Prints

I was a bit off with my BMG extruder calibration steps per mm. The below pictures are a little under extruded, but the following pictures after this have now got the correct steps per mm. You will still see on some of the bluer plus review 3d prints there is still some defects, but this should be down to the filament needing calibrated with this 3d printer.

3D Benchy

It is designed to 3D-print quickly and be a fun tool for calibrating your 3D printer. Designed By CreativeTools.

Spiral Vase

A simple but nice model to test out because you can insert your favourite filament strands into the slot’s. You don’t need to print in vase mode on your 3D printer. But for me, I pre-fair to use this setting for a quick and easy print. Designed By Streetfire_Industries.

XYZ 20mm Calibration Cube

This is a simple calibration test cube for your 3D printer with X, Y & Z written on the axis. Designed By iDig3Dprinting.

Practical 3D Models

Sometimes it gets a bit boring printing models that will just sit on your table. The glorious thing about 3D printing is you can also print practical models that you can use every day.

Super Mario Nintendo Switch Charge and Play Stand

This is an original design, inspired by the old 3DS-holding Mario statue that used to be available. He holds your Switch just high enough so you can plug a standard USB-C cable in and play while charging. Designed By docvalentine

Articulated 3D Models

Articulated 3D models are models that have two or more sections that are connected by flexible joints.

Cute Mini Octopus

It’s designed so it can be printed in one piece. No assembly or supports required. Designed By McGybeer

Ornamental 3D Models

Outstanding works of art to print and put on a shelf for everyone to look at.

Cheeky Monkey

This is an exceptional model to print, cheeky defiance was an enjoyable choice. Designed By bendansie

Rude Banana

If you love to print funny cartoonie models, give the rude banana a try. Designed By Psdwizzard

Sonic The Hedgehog

Sonic is a Japanese video game series and media franchise created and owned by Sega. This for me is a childhood memory that I needed to 3D print. I will be painting Sonic at some point and printing a stand for him. Designed By ChaosCoreTech.

3Ds On Toilet

Some more 3D printing memes. Designed By JeEk

StarWars Use the Force Darth Vader

If you love Starwars and 3D printing memes than this, you should print. Designed By yb__magiic

Two Trees Bluer Plus Conclusion

After the QC issues are fixed and I calibrated the extruder, the Bluer Plus starts to become an excellent FDM 3D Printer. It comes 90 percent assembled perfect for those who just want to get up and running. It’s the case of just 4 bolts and cables and that will take you about 20 minutes to set up, that’s including checking to make sure everything is fine.

Two Trees have done outstanding work with the design easy access to all the major components and also with it being really quiet you don’t need to wear earphones. The print surface i really like because glass plates for me I don’t like. So with having the benefit of a magnetic flex plate lets me just pop the prints off and get another one going. Also to top it off the adhesion is out of this world no need for glue or any of that additives.

i would say the one thing I really don’t like about it is the limited functions on the LCD screen but this is because im used to have more functions to use. Like the Biqu B1, for example. But don’t let me put you off by saying this because you can still get access to other settings by using pronterface. Overall, the Two Trees Bluer Plus 3D printer is perfect for beginners at an affordable price. Did I have fun with the Two Trees Bluer review unit the answer is yes.

 

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